Foto Speedy Füllemann
Grimsel, Handegg | Fair Hands Line ****
10 SL | 350m | 6a+ (5c+ obl)
J. von Känel, M. Stettler 78
Refurbished M. Stettler, U. Kämpf, P. Schubert 97
The glaciers have worked on the landscapes around Grimsel for millennia, grinding on the rocks and leaving us with a breathtaking rock landscape. The Grimsel region is even somewhat reminiscent of the Yosemite Valley in California. Both were heavily shaped by the glaciers. In both we see impressive rock bastions made of hard granite, which could defy the glacier. Both are unique, beautiful mountain regions.
Fair Hands Line at the Handegg is together with Motörhead in the Eldorado among the most popular climbing routes in the Grimsel area. The tour is rewarding in several respects: firstly, the extremely short ascent of 15-20 minutes should trigger an approving nod by the vast majority of climbers. Second, and this is the main argument, Fair Hands Line offers really great and varied climbing , which offers much more than pure slab climbing.
Fair Hands Line can be roughly divided into three sections: At the beginning you will find the friction slabs typical for the Grimsel area, where your movements have to be very precise, but also determined... After the first, non-trivial slabby pitches, the route gets steeper in the second part and offers great and grippy climbing. Fair Hands Line always follows the cracks which offer finger and hand jams and many stunning jugs. From pitch 6 on, the wall lays back and so do the difficulties, since the rock remains grippy, which makes climbing very consumer-friendly. In the third part, pitch 9 is particularly worth mentioning, where the steepness increases again. Here you climb first over a beautiful crack flake and then on smaller but still grippy structures over a great wall. Beautiful! So finally even the wall climber gets his money's worth.
Fair Hands Line was refurbished in 1997 and is equipped with glued bolts. These are numerous in the difficult sections, often alongside structures that could be protected very easily with mobile devices. In the simpler terrain, you still have to climb many passages in which you can fall far to very far and which can hardly be secured with a mobile device. Overall, you should master the difficulties or have a solid leader or mountain guide with you.
Finally, the route convinces with an unusual and very efficient descent along the Gelmerbahn. Some people wish the passing trains would take one with them. Unfortunately, this is not the case ... But the reactions of the passing tourists are certain. Many admire the brave climbers, wave cheerfully and some cannot resist a malicious saying... That would probably be the same for us and how could you take it other than with humor, with ten great pitches in magnificent rock still resonating beautifully in your mind.
Aproach and descent Fair Hands Line
Behind the Gelmerbahn follow the trail and scramble over some boulders to reach the base of the wall in 15-20'. From the last pitch cross to the right in the direction of the climb to the very steep stairs that lead along the tracks of the Gelmerbahn in about 40' to the station. Attention, when you cross the train it gets tight. See the map for the approximate route. The sun reaches the base of the wall in mid-September around 1200.
Fair Hands Line Topo
L1 5b Challenging moves at the first bolt. In the end on a great flake up to the pedestal at the belay.
L2 6a+ At the beginning demanding slab climbing, but well protected. The difficult looking slab crossing to the left can easily be avoided higher up. Afterwards cam 0.5-75 valuable. Then easier towards the belay.
L3 6a Super generous, steep climbing along a crack dihedral. Beautiful! You can belay on a hanging belay or climb a few meters further up to another belay, with 50m rope probably scarce.
L4 5c+ As previous pitch. Great and grippy, but less steep.
L5 5b holding left on the slab. Still generous, beautiful climbing. Comfortable belay.
L6 5b First traverse to the right and then straight up on the slab. From here on, Fair Hands Line will lean back. You can skip the first belasy on the slab with 50m rope and climb up to the next.
L7 4c Simple, grippy slab with an exciting hourglass in granite!
L8 5b slab with a great crack.
L9 6a+ Mummery goes straight up here, which looks very tricky. In any case, this pitch from Fair Hands Line is very worthwhile: First a great flake and then great moves on the step slab, which dissolve brilliantly on smaller holds.
L10 5b slab climbing on good holdes first and then increasingly friction climbing.
Climbing 3-4 hours
Sun at the base of the wall from around 12:00 p.m. (mid-September)
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : xxx / XXXXX can partly be supplemented with mobile devices
Exposure : southwest
Material : 50m double rope, 10 quickdraws, Cams C4 0.3-0.75
Book Fair Hands Line
Would you like to climb Fair Hands Line or another climbing tour? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day