Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Graue Wand | Niedermann ****
11 SL | 450m | 5c+ (5c+ obl)
M. Niedermann, W. Sieber 64
The Graue Wand (gray wall) is the more than 500m mighty, south-facing rock bastion in the Albert-Heim area, which is flanked by the Gletschhorn on your right and Winterstock on your left. Although the Graue Wand is only noted on the map as a point without a name on its own, it is one of the highlights in the Uri granite and one of the big names when it comes to climbing in the Furka region. Even the local mountain guides are happy every time they are allowed to visit the Graue Wand.
The route Niedermann is THE classic on the Graue Wand. The route follows the simplest way through the impressive wall and consistently uses the existing crack and dihedral systems. Accordingly, there is no wall climbing on crimps and holes, but classic granite climbing. Jamming, spreading and laybacking are requested here. An aspirant of Niedermann on the Graue Wand must demonstrate these skills in the first three pitches. Some broader cracks and short chimneys also have to be solved. The topo speaks of difficulties in the range of 5c, indeed the climbing here is demanding, especially if you have little granite experience. Once these three first pitches have been completed, the path to the highest point on the Graue Wand is open. The terrain becomes easier on the one hand. In the middle, on the other hand, the highlight of the route awaits with the goat's back , which offers spectacular, grippy climbing on giant flakes. Only pitch number 10 with its wide crack can delay the near summit success. The summit finally awaits you with a comfortable plateau and with a really grandiose view of the glaciated mountains like Dammastock, Sustenhorn, Fleckistock etc. And on the far right the crown of the Uri climbing summits can be spotted, the Salbitschijen with its three dream ridges. Inspiration for next goals...
The protection on the Graue Wand is alpine. The belays are solid and you can always find bolts, but in between, it is imperative to use mobile devices, which is always possible. With a rack C4 0.3-1 you are adequately equipped, although of course you would also be able to get in larger cams.
The rappel line starts directly from the highest point of the Niedermann, is set up in an exemplary manner and leads efficiently in approx. 45m long sections back to the highest point of the stem. 60m double ropes only enable insignificantly faster abseiling. Descend from the highest point of the stem along the approach. The descent over the snow field can be facilitated by 1x rappelling, bolts available.
Approach Graue Wand, Niedermann
By public transport to Tiefenbach or by car to Tätsch (CHF 7.-). From here folloow the hiking path towards Albert-Heim-Hütte and further as shown on the map. An overnight stay in the well-maintained Albert Heim hut is a highly recommended option, especially if you want to be at the base of the wall early. In the end, the approach leads over a steep snow field, which usually requires good footwear and the use of an ice axe. At the end of summer, when there is no snow, watch out for rockfalls from the couloirs.
Topo gray wall, Niedermann
L1 5c The Niedermann starts with demanding granite climbing. Precise footwork, jamming and laybacking are required. If you have no experience in such terrain, it might feel difficult. There are a few bolts, but placing your own mobile devices is mandatory.
L2 5c Similar to L1, only that a nasty short chimney is added. Properly solved, it is great fun to climb. Otherwise it can become an excoriation ... Then a second demanding move, where you want to place your feet carefully.
L3 5c+ Challenging moves at the beginning, then very nice crack and layback climbing.
L4 5b Large, steep and beautiful over the roof.
L5 4c Simple dihedral. Do not follow the bolts to the right. These do not belong to Niedermann.
L6 4a Scrambling
L7 5b The goat's back, the heart of the Niedermann on the Graue Wand. Erected giant flakes. A real pleasure to climb on... even if you can torture yourself here ... Super comfortable belay!
L8 4b Nice, simple climbing, a short, more demanding section in a narrow dihedral. Then left to the belay on the ledge. Attention, do not climb straight up (other route).
L9 5c Great, straight forwaard climbing to the first ledge. From there along beautiful cracks.
L10 5c + This pitch requires again crack climbing technique, in wide cracks to be precise. You can squeeze, jam and spread. Some cheer, others curse. Here you would get large to very large cams in. However, there are always bolts. (Rated 5c in other topos)
L11 5a Beautiful, easy final pitch to the highest point, from where a wonderful view opens up.
Times Graue Wand, Niedermann
Approach 1h45 '
Descent 1h30 '
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : xx / XXXXX can be supplemented very well
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 8 quickdraws, cams C4 0.3-1, slings 120cm
Further highlights on the Graue Wand
9SL | 350m | 7a (6b obl)
C. & Y. Rémy 1988, refurbished Allemann 14
Together with Niedermann the most famous route on the Graue Wand. The first pitch already costs a few drops of sweat, quite hard for the grade. Then easy climbing, also the 6c turns out to be very mild. The highlight of the route is undoubtedly the well-known super crack. This crack is stunning and makes the route by itself worthwhile, even if the difficulties in total are quite heterogenous.
Captain Morgan ****
7SL | 250m | 7c + (7a obl)
Schwitter, Meyer, 94, refurbished Enrich, Schwitter 17
The test piece in the red slabs. Was recently refurbished. The first pitches are a welcome warm-up. The 7a pitch is persistent, technically demanding and not for free compared to the rest. The first 7b pitch requires precise wall climbing off the belay and a little resistance in the end. The second 7b pitch comes up with a single crux at the beginning. The heart and highlight of the route is undisputed the 7c+ pitch. Ingenious wall climbing, initially relatively generous, then very small crimps have to be screwed on. Technically demanding and powerful, but overrated with 7c+. Awesome climb!
El Nino ****
10SL | 450m | 7b (6b obl)
Roth, Schuler 1997
Beautiful, challenging wall climbing up to 6b+. Short crux (single 7b crux), which can also be aided A0. Worthwhile route, for example if you have to queue in the Niedermann.
Heisse Linie ****
7SL | 250m | 6c (6a + obl)
Giger, Kubin, Betz 1980, refurbished BGA 02
The striking diagonal crack line in the left part of the Graue Wand, the red slabs. Nice crack climbing, which also has to be protected to a large extent on mobile devices. Rewarding!
12SL | 450m | 6b + (6a + obl)
Scheel, Heer, Müller 82, refurbished BGA
Quite demanding, the slabs in the beginning, towards the top the rock and the route become more generous, both in terms of protection and difficulty.
Book a climbing tour on Graue Wand
Would you like to climb Niedermann or another tour on the Graue Wand? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the route and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day