Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Maira *****
8SL | 250m | 7b (6c obl)
Andreas Stadler 2017
Maira is a variant of Florina, which crosses left onto the Jardin after pitch 3. From there, very rewarding wall climbing in pitch 5 and a great, clean crack in L6 lead to the crux, which is rated 7b and offers stunninng wall climbing on small, not always obvious structures. The Teufelstalwand offers perfect cracks, but also ingeniously structured wall climbing, as Maira proves.
Maybe one day Maira will get its own start. Access would probably be difficult, the climbing over fine cracks (tips) on the one hand demanding, on the other hand great along an imposing roof. To be continued ...
At the end of the abseils you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a grassy ledge (short fixed rope) and traverses it to the left. You reach a second short fixed rope, climb a step down and traverse further to the belay of Eternal Crack. Use the same belay to start Laura & Florina. They both follow the simple ramp on the left and aim for the striking chimney dihedral. Descent and emergency exit see here .
L1 5a Extended approach pitch, shared with Laura. At the beginning Cam 0.5-0.75, at the end 0.4. No gear in between, but easy climbing. Anyone who is already sweating here will have a hard day.
L2 6a First a few meters along the chimney-like dihedral, then up the great, steep hand crack in the left wall - the left one of the two cracks is more rewarding. Into the chimney and squeeze it up 30m. The chimney is expo and the protection is sparse. It has 2 jammed blocks that you can tie off or put a Cam 0.75-1 on the second one. On the far left you get a bad wedge. However, you sit very stably and can hardly fall out, provided you do not pass out from sheer exertion... 50m to the level of the pot on the tower. Knee pads make climbing much more comfortable. Some will love it, some will hate it. The pitch will definitely be remembered by both!
L3 6b+ What a perfect splinter - WOW! First over the loose flakes. These are more stable than they appear, but still be careful and do not put any cams behind! Then perfect hand crack. Number 4 cam necessary, you can also get two in or slide the first.
L4 4a Easy scrambling to the belay on the Jardin.
L5 6c+ Very rewarding, generously structured wall climbing with a powerful stand up move followed by a strenuous layback section. The pitch is bolted, but its important for the follower to put in a cam 0.75 at the end before crossing to the belay.
L6 6b Wall climbing at the start (bolt, structures partially loose) followed by a great, clean finger to hand crack.
L7 7b What a great wall! First some challenging, powerful moves. Then sustained wall climbing on brilliant, fine structures and more generous again towards the end. Escape to easier terrain is sometimes possible, but it is definitely worth climbing the wall! Without chalk traces & tickmarks certainly more demanding to read the moves. No cams necessary.
L8 5c Joins the last pitch of Laura and gets out over the chimney.
Follow the track and the simplest terrain. This leads to the last, simple pitch of Alpentraum. Depending on your taste, you can belay here again.
Beauty : ***** / *****
Protection : - / XXXXX Can be easily secured anywhere except in the chimney. xxx / XXXXX Where bolted. Belays equipped.
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 11 quickdraws, Camalots 1x C4 4, 2x C4 0.3-1, 3x C4 2
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