MYBERGTOUR'S FINEST
Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing on the Eiger | Golden Shower ****
10 SL | 270m | 7b (7a obl)
J. Allemann, A. Stadler 2017-19
RP 1 Aug. 30, 2019 - Topo
golden line - golden rock - golden memories
Most people associate climbing on the Eiger with snow and ice and the countless wild, tragic but also glorious stories that took place on this world-famous mountain. In the right part of the Eiger north face and at its western foothills you will also find routes in which you are adequately equipped with climbing finches, quickdraws and magnesia bag. You will find mighty rock pillars and impressive walls that feature generously structured limestone. Climbing history has been written on the Czech and Geneva pillars for a long time. The most famous tour here is Deep Blue Sea. To the right of the Geneva pillar on the western foothills of the north face of the Eiger, however, it was quiet for a long time. Only the mountain guide and hard-working first ascentionist Daniel Anker and colleague Gruber had climbed the first route here in 1988 named Löcherspiel. There has been a lot of activity in the past 5 years and four new routes have been opened: Ratatat, Meltdown, Golden Shower and another tour that has not yet been completed (as of Sept 19).
The routes on the western foothills of the Eiger north face are all worthwhile. On the one hand because of their stunning setting. Although you don't climb in the middle of the Eiger north face, you do climb on the foothills of this mighty mountain. Alpine history is all around and which climber, whether he is a hobby athlete, mountain guide or full professional, does not even want to sniff the atmosphere of the north face of the Eiger.
On the other hand, from the quality of climbing. The rock on the Eiger is usually very generously structured, offers many positive crimps and grippy holes, on which climbing is really fun. The rock quality can vary. From rough rock of world-class quality to good to sections where you can never be sure whether the hold will really hold. Most of the time, however, the very good rock predominates and stunning pitches are bought with a few meters in brittle rock. A fair deal. However, there is a risk of rock fall when other climbers are on the way.
Finally, the short, extremely scenic approach from Kleine Scheidegg via the Rotstock via ferrata makes the area additionally attractive.
Pleasant conditions usually prevail here when the temperature in the valley is 30 degrees or more. Even then, there should be enough warm clothes in the backpack.