MYBERGTOUR'S FINEST
Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing on the Eiger | Golden Shower ****
10 SL | 270m | 7b (7a obl)
J. Allemann, A. Stadler 2017-19
RP 1 Aug. 30, 2019 - Topo
golden line - golden rock - golden memories
Most people associate climbing on the Eiger with snow and ice and the countless wild, tragic but also glorious stories that took place on this world-famous mountain. In the right part of the Eiger north face and at its western foothills you will also find routes in which you are adequately equipped with climbing finches, quickdraws and magnesia bag. You will find mighty rock pillars and impressive walls that feature generously structured limestone. Climbing history has been written on the Czech and Geneva pillars for a long time. The most famous tour here is Deep Blue Sea. To the right of the Geneva pillar on the western foothills of the north face of the Eiger, however, it was quiet for a long time. Only the mountain guide and hard-working first ascentionist Daniel Anker and colleague Gruber had climbed the first route here in 1988 named Löcherspiel. There has been a lot of activity in the past 5 years and four new routes have been opened: Ratatat, Meltdown, Golden Shower and another tour that has not yet been completed (as of Sept 19).
The routes on the western foothills of the Eiger north face are all worthwhile. On the one hand because of their stunning setting. Although you don't climb in the middle of the Eiger north face, you do climb on the foothills of this mighty mountain. Alpine history is all around and which climber, whether he is a hobby athlete, mountain guide or full professional, does not even want to sniff the atmosphere of the north face of the Eiger.
On the other hand, from the quality of climbing. The rock on the Eiger is usually very generously structured, offers many positive crimps and grippy holes, on which climbing is really fun. The rock quality can vary. From rough rock of world-class quality to good to sections where you can never be sure whether the hold will really hold. Most of the time, however, the very good rock predominates and stunning pitches are bought with a few meters in brittle rock. A fair deal. However, there is a risk of rock fall when other climbers are on the way.
Finally, the short, extremely scenic approach from Kleine Scheidegg via the Rotstock via ferrata makes the area additionally attractive.
Pleasant conditions usually prevail here when the temperature in the valley is 30 degrees or more. Even then, there should be enough warm clothes in the backpack.
Approach and descent Golden Shower
By train to Kleine Scheidegg and then to the Rotstock via ferrata, which you leave after the ladders and traverse left onto the rubble belt to the start (faint trail and cairns, see also map). The routes are set up for abseiling. From the exit of Golden Shower, Ratatat, Meltdown and Löcherspiel you can also descend to the Eigergletscher station in about 45 minutes via the exposed west flank. A comfortable option is to travel by (electric) bike from Grindelwald Grund. So you don't have to catch the last train down to the valley, you can take full advantage of the day and comfortably roll down towards Grindelwald in the evening. Note: the train does not transport bicycles on the first train.
Topo Golden Shower
L1 6c Start is marked with a bolt. In simple and beautiful climbing over the gray slab. After that increasingly difficult in golden rock over crimps and drip holes to the belay on a ledge. 6Bolts, 25m.
L2 7a Great pitch. Bouldering crux above the belay on positive crimps. Continue in demanding but great climbing on to the ledge. Persistent moves lead to a comfortable belay on another ledge. 7 Bolts, 25m, at the end optional cams 0.3-0.75 can be used.
L3 6a+ Straight up from the belay and cross the brittle but easy section to the left into the gray wall. This awaits with great, grippy wall climbing. Very worthwhile! 6Bolts 25m, optional Cam 2 at the beginning.
L4 7a The heart of the route. Great wall climbing on rough and generously structured limestone. WOW! Crux over the 4th bolt. Cams 0.3-1 might be useful. 10Bolts, 40m.
L5 5c After the rubble ledge into the distinctive dihedral, which features surprisingly solid rock and large holds. Great climbing and a cozy belay on the tower, which gets sun in the late afternoon. 2Bolts 25m, Cam 2 at the beginning and optionally smaller ones higher up.
L6 6a+ Straight up on large and slopy holes. Cam 0.75 at the beginning, further placements possible. Then onwards in the best, grippy rock and a little exposed. At the end, as soon as possible, go right and cross back left to the belay at the lip. 4Bolts, 40m cams 0.3-2.
L7 7b Carefully over the short brittle section in the beginning. Then great climbing in golden rock and small crimps to a good rest. Then a second demanding crux. Continue in easier climbing to the exciting finale. 8Bolts, 30m, optional Cam 0.5.
L8 7a up onto the ledge and cross to the right in delicate, technical climbing. Then a demanding crux over the shingled flakes. Continue in moderately solid rock to the belay. The climbing in the second part is a bit uncomfortable due to the “shingled” rock, but this is more stable than it looks 8Bolts, 25m.
L9 6c Better rock again. Short crux. In the end shingled rock, but large holds and well protectred. 5Bolts, 1 piton 20m.
L10 5a Eigerbrittle at its best. Climbing carefully is the game here. To be honest, this pitch is not rewarding at all, whoever who climbs it will be compensated with a summit on the pot-level tower and has the option to descend on foot. 2Bolts, 1 piton, 15m.
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : xxx / XXXXX must be partially supplemented with a mobile device
Exposure : north
Material : 50m double rope, 12 quickdraws, cams C4 0.3-2
Further routes on the western foothills of the Eiger north face
Löcherspiel *** (Topo Löcherspiel )
8SL | 250m | 6b (6b obl)
D. Anker, Gruber 88
The first route on the western foothills of the Eiger north face. Initially very adventurous and sparsely equipped, the routes exhibits twice as many bolts after a refurbishment by D. Anker, M. Romang and C. Frick 2018 . Nice climbing with homogeneous difficulties and some traverses. The rock is mostly good to very good and, as usual on the Eiger, very climber-friendly.
Project
Frick & Schmid
Ratatat **** (Topo Ratatat)
10 SL | 265m | 7a (6c obl)
J. Allemann, D. Osswald 2016
Very nice, versatile route with the generously structured wall climbing characteristic of the Eiger, but also technical sections, short steep parts and beautiful dihedrals. The protection is consistently good, in between mobile devices can also be placed.
Meltdown 7a+
Robert Jasper 2019
An old project by Robert Jasper, which he completed in 2019 ropesolo. Short, steep single cruxes and wall climbing, but also more brittle zones in between. Finishes via Ratatat. Start a few meters to the left of Golden Shower.
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Keywords: climbing, multi-pitch, Eiger north face, western foothills, golden shower, topo, mountain guide