Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Gross Bielenhorn | Niedermann-Anderrüthi *****
9SL | 320m | 6a + (5c + obl)
M. Niedermann, F. Anderrüthi 1985
Refurbished local mountain guides in 2004
The Niedermann-Anderrüthi is definitely one of the best climbing routes in this difficulty far around. The coarse-grained, rough furka granite, the generous, grippy rock structures and the impressive pitches along cracks and flakes make the Niedermann-Anderrüthi what it is today. A beautiful, often climbed classic in the imposing mountain arena of Furkahorn, Galenstock and Sidelen Glacier.
The Niedermann-Anderrüthi was refurbished in 2004 by local mountain guides and today has quite a few bolts, here and there it must and can still be secured by cams and stoppers, which is easily possible. You will also find more or less trustworthy pitons. The lover of clean routes may be bothered by a few bolts that shine next to perfect cracks. However, the Niedermann-Anderrüthi on Gross Bielenhorn still has character and offers simply great climbing, comparable in quality to the routes on the Teufelstalwand.
Approach Gross Bielenhorn
From the Furka Pass or from the Sidelenbach via the hiking trail to the Sidelenhütte. From here, depending on the snow conditions, look for the the best way in snow and rock along the impressive west wall to the start of the route. The striking 90-degree dihedral in the second pitch is clearly visible and leads the climber to the start. The last piece of firn, about 40+ degrees steep, can be tricky without alpine equipment. At least one ice axe for hitting steps might be necessary here. Especially since the snow remains hard for a long time due to the exposure to the west - the sun arrives at 11 a.m. It is best to climb the sloping ledge under the painted animal or with a little more effort straight onto the ledge at the paintings and switch to climbing shoes here.
L1 5c From the start up to the Uristier and over very good rock ascending to the right to the comfortable belay on a small ledge to the right of the dihedral.
L2 6a + The well-known 90-degree dihedral, the heart of the route. What a line! Laybacking is the motto here. There are always footholds, but the climbing remains exhausting. In many topos only 6a, the pitch is graded more adequately with 6a+. Clearly the most demanding length of the route. There are numerous bolts and pitons. In addition, you can easily place cams (finger size). If you place quickdraws in all the rusty pitons, you need up to 14 pieces. However, these are not necessary. Hanging belay on a small ledge.
L3 6a From the belay climb slightly to the left in great wall climbing to a crack. Then back to the dihedral and in beautiful climbing to a comfortable belay.
L4 5c Simpler terrain with a few demanding sections. These are secured with bolts. Rated 4c in older topos, 5c should be more realistic. Comfortable belay on the big jardin before the next upswing.
L5 5c+ Great, steep and extremely grippy climbing along the dihedral with numerous flakes and cracks. WOW!
L6 5c+ Follow the distinctive dihedral and at the end do not miss the branch to the left on the ledge (Bolt at the corner). The bolts to the right belong to Nolens Volens. You could also climb over these and at the end return left into Niedermann. Also very worthwhile!
L7 6a+ Crux right at the beginning of a finger crack. A cam protects against the impending fall onto the ledge. Then keep to the left, continue along an dihedral and finally steep to the belay. Furkagranit at its best!
L8 5a Follow the simple dihedral in great, grippy rock to the ledge. Summit book here. Rappelling is not recommended from here.