Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing in the Eldorado | Grimsel
golden slabs in a dreamlike setting
At least once in your climbing life you should visit the Eldorado and put your hand and feet on these world-famous slabs. Because in the Eldorado many qualities come together: a breathtaking setting, over 500m mighty slab walls, a granite of the highest quality and a lot of climbing history. The area is located in a breathtakingly beautiful environment, which is characterized by a strong landscape contrast. The Grimselsee and the lovely vegetation create almost a beach atmosphere on one side. On the other hand, the glaciated Bernese Alps with the mighty Lauteraarhorn north face give the setting a high alpine touch. A unique mix.
The climbing style in the Eldorado is old school, characterized by technical slabs, cracks and dihedrals, whereby the first ones predominate. Neither strong fingers nor a thick biceps help here, but precision, trust in the feet and a good balance. All those qualities are often needed when climbing high above the last bolt. After a long absence, already pitches in grade four can feel surprisingly demanding. This has already happened to numerous aspirants, regardless of whether they are rising stars, experienced climbers or mountain guides. But familiarity comes back soon with the exercise and you run them up again, those smooth slabs.
The lines in the Eldorado are aesthetic, as if drawn by hand. The rock is golden and the routes are long. The tireless Rémy brothers discovered and developed the Eldorado practically on their own. Initially even without a drill machine, minimally equipped with a hand drill, hammer and simple mobile safety devices, they ventured into these walls. Their performance deserves the greatest respect. Over the years, bolts have been added to many routes, but the character of most has remained serious .
Approach and descent Eldorado
Approach in about 1: 45h along the beautiful path to the Lauteraar hut, which runs under the Eldorado. The descent runs on the east side of the rock dome via a faint trail and cairns. Nevertheless, you can lose yourself. After the first third there are two options: downclimb a gully on the left or briefly abseil on the right. About 45' to the hut path.
Highlights in the Eldorado
Motörhead | 16SL | 550m | 6b (6a + obl)
Rémy brothers 81, refurbished 03, 11
Motörhead was the first route in the Eldorado and today is probably one of the most famous climbing routes in the entire Alpine region. Without a doubt, Motörhead offers beautiful climbing along a great line. The route follows a logical dihedral and crack system and, in addition to jamming and laybacking, requires precise footwork on slabs. The protection is mostly ok and can often be supplemented with mobile devices, but there are sections where a fall could end badly nevertheless. The highlights of Motörhead include
L3 / 6a + wonderful, aesthetic crack dihedral
L6 / 5c extremely rewarding slab, crack and finally dihedral climbing
L7 / 6a very rewarding but slopy dihedral
L12 / 6a wonderful and versatile with a steep intersection, roof and crack climbing at the end
Big names and moderate difficulties attract the crowds. It is not uncommon to find aspirants in Motörhead who are overstrained and fight their way up the individual pitches, particularly at a snail's pace, and cause a real traffic jam behind them. Unfortunately, it is often these rope teams that are found at the base of the crag early in the morning. So you better design an even earlier plan, travel during the week or with a little patience.
Septumania | 16 SL | 550m | 6a+ (6a obl)
Rémy brothers 91, refurbished 11
To start a first ascend ground-up, climb smooth slabs high above the last piece of protection without knowing what to expect, without knowing whether there will be opportunities to cliff or not is a great achievement. The Rémy brothers were definitely masters of this style, which they prove in Septumania, among others. Although the route mostly follows smooth slabs in the upper part, it remains varied. After the extraordinary glacier formed channel at the beginning of Septumania, there are some impressive dihedrals to be climbed. Then Septumania follows the seemingly smooth slabs. The climbing and protection remain exciting. Lovers of this style will get their money's worth here. A solid lead moral, a strong leader or mountain guide definitely is an advantage in Septumania.
Metal Hurlant | 15 SL | 550m | 6b (6a+ obl)
Remy brothers 1982, refurbished
Another Eldorado classic, which requires delicate slab climbing and demonstrates how difficult a grade 4 pitch can feel without practice... The highlights of Metal Hurlant are the cracks in the middle of the route. L7 / 6b should be emphasized in particular. A narrow, v-shaped dihedral with chimney character, which can be protected over large parts with mobile devices. What a line! The protection of Metal Hurlant can be described as good after several refurbishments, even if the rust still gnaws on some bolts as well as on the nerves of the leader.
Schweiz Plaisir | 16 SL | 500m | 6a+ (6a obl)
Rémy brothers 91, refurbished 11
You're welcomed to Eldorado in the first slabby pitches. Many climber and mountain guide who usually yawns in grades of 6a+ was already sweating here. Strong fingers and a thick biceps are of little help here. Standing well, trusting in your feet and a lot of balance are required on these old school slabs, which indeed can feel challening without practice.
The undisputed highlights of Switzerland Plaisir are the pitches 4 & 5 (5c and 5c+). Here you get to climb an insanely structured granite like you can hardly find it. You almost think you are in the water-eaten limestone and always have to make sure that you are really touching granite. Fantastic structures, great climbing. In the upper part of Schweiz Plaisir, the technical, but mostly grippy slabs predominate again. Attention, Schweiz Plaisir crosses the Tour Mir, in which one could easily get lost.
Book a climbing tour in the Elodorado
Would you like to climb Motörhead or another climbing tour in the Eldorado? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day