Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Bergseeschijen | South Ridge *****
11SL | 340m | 5a (5a obl)
Boller, Regli 1949, refurb. Fullin, Banholzer 91
The Bergseeschijen is the perfect destination for every rock climber who is looking for multi-pitch routes in moderate difficulties from 4a-5c but is not willing to make compromises in terms of rock quality and alpine ambience. The Bergseeschijen will convince climbers of this taste all along the line, with a variety of routes. The easiest and most visited is the Bergseeschijen south ridge. It offers stunning, generously structured slab climbing in the first part, a simpler middle section, which is reminiscent of classic alpine terrain and a final section with extremely grippy cracks and other granite structures. It is no coincidence that there are numerous rope teams on sunny weekends. Those who climb effortlessly and others who struggle to get up. It therefore pays to start early in the morning.
The climbing takes place in the "plaisir zone" with regard to difficulties. The protection is good with new material and there is always a solid anchor on the belay. Nevertheless, this requires mastering the required difficulties and also skills in placing mobile devices, which is not always obvious, for example, in the lower, slabby pitches.
Further worthwhile routes on Bergseeschijen are Via Andrea (5a, 5a obl) or Tonis Lust (5c, 1pa, 5b + obl), to name just two. These follow their own lines in the beginning and join the south ridge in the end.
Approach to Bergseeschijen south ridge
You can drive to the parking lot at the Dammagletscher mountain restaurant on the Göscheneralp by car or post bus (parking fee 8.-). From here you can walk to the Bergesseschijen Südgrat in about 2 hours, see map.
Descent Bergseeschijen south ridge
Rappelling over the tour is no longer recommended after the entry slabs. The usual descent follows the marked path along the east flank and over the Bergseeschijen Lücke, where the path is additionally reinforced with steel cables. Then follow the easy hiking trail back to the parking lot at the Dammastock restaurant.
Alternatively, you can also abseil a good 100m north of the summit over the west couloir (3x 25m on good anchors) and descend directly from here to the hut. This variant is faster when there is still snow in early summer.
L1 4b Very nice, slabby climbing on mostly good structures. It can and must be climbed on friction. In this respect, climbing shoes are more pleasant here - and in general on the route. However, if you want to improve your climbing skills with heavy shoes, here you can practice this very well. Protection is solid, but you want to have the difficulties under control or add additional gear, for which the possibilities are not always obvious.
L2 4c In character like L1, but slightly more demanding with not always clear lines.
L3 4c Single crux in a short traverse. Then easier and wonderfully grippy.
L4 & 5 Very nice, easier and still grippy (4a & 3c).
L6,7,8 First a wonderful edge. The climbing is much easier than before and is reminiscent of classic alpine tours.
L9 4c The edge looks hard, but quickly turns out to be extremely rough and grippy. Great!
L10 5a Piaz crux at the beginning, followed by a very nice crack and very grippy climbing. You can bypass the tower on the right or climb over it. Watch out for rope drag. Rated 4c in the older topo.
L11 5a Again a short crux at the beginning, where you have to place your feet well. Followed again by a wonderful crack and lavishly grippy climbing in the best rock. Very nice length! Rated 4c in the older topo.
In easy block terrain to the summit
Beauty : ***** / *****
Protection : xx / XXXXX, can often be supplemented with mobile devices
Exposure : south
Material : 50m single rope, 8 quickdraws, Camalots depending on your skills from none up to C4 0.3-2 and small to medium nuts.
Book Bergseeschijen South Ridge
Would you like to climb the Bergseeschijen over the south ridge or undertake another mountain tour? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | Book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day