Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Gross Furkahorn | South-East Ridge ****
17 SL | 370m | 4c (4c obl)
Hitz, Montigel 1908, refurbished Stadler 94
The south-east ridge of the Gross Furkahorn is another pearl in the almost inexhaustible rock mecca around the Sidelen hut. It offers classic climbing along a great ridge and fantastic rock in the typically rough, coarse-grained furka granite. The climbing mainly takes place on generous structures like ridge spikes, cracks and flakes. The Gross Furkahorn is nestled in a breathtakingly beautiful, high alpine landscape, surrounded by the Gross Bielenhorn, Galenstock and Sidelen Glacier on one side and the Rhone Glacier with a view of the Bernese and Valais Alps on the other side - a truly grandiose setting.
Not surprisingly, there are often several rope teams on the way. It pays to be early, for example by spending the night at the Sidelen hut, although the tour can also be undertaken as a day tour from the Furka Pass. The approach from the pass takes about 1.5 hours.
Those who want to improve their climbing skills with heavy shoes will find a suitable tour with the Gross Furkahorn SE ridge. Climbing is mostly easy, but nevertheless you have to place your feet carefully in some places. The majority will probably be able to enjoy the tour more within climbing shoes.
In short: an easily accessible, moderately difficult but great mountain tour in a beautiful, alpine setting.
Approach Gross Furkahorn southeast ridge
The Gross Furkahorn SE ridge can be undertaken as a day tour from the Furka Pass. Ascent from the pass approx. 1.5 hours, at the beginning along the hut path, then via block terrain to the start (E674774, N160926), see map. Optionally, you can spend the night at the Sidelen hut, so you don't have to start that early and can still be among the first at the base of the ridge. An important aspect, especially on weekends! Approach from the hut about 0.75h.
Descent Gross Furkahorn southeast ridge
Rappel approx. 20m from the summit needle towards the notch (cairns). Descend orographically to the right past the tower along numerous cairns over exposed, gravelly terrain. On the left there is a variant with downclimbing up to grade II and 1x25m abseiling, on the right an abseiling piste with 3x25m on the large grassy belt under the rock wall, see also Topo here. A track and cairns lead back to the start. Total about 1-1.5 hours.
Topo Gross Furkahorn southeast ridge
L1 start in the striking, beautiful dihedral. With heavy shoes not that easy, about 4c. 4 bolts, additional gear can be easily added. Belay on the left. Don't follow the dihedral!
L2 Follow the ridge along a great crack. Beautiful and grippy climbing (2Bh, 2Nh).
L3 crack at the beginning with 2 bolts (the second one lacks the plate). Somewhat confusing course afterwards. First 10-15m over a grassy ramp, then right over edge. Can also be bypassed via a grass ramp on the left. At the end belay on the right.
L4 Very nice length! The logical line leads over generous structures to the right into the big crack, whereby the bolt can hardly be clipped on the plate. Continue in great rock on a jammed block, demanding spot high on the edge and over the slab to the belay. Quite demanding especially in heavy shoes. But great climbing and first class rock!
L5 Simple climbing followed by an exciting slab - could also be avoided on the right or left. Then great climbing in the left of the two cracks, on the right definitely worthwhile (Cam 0.75-1 useful). Further up to the belay.
L6 Simple climbing on very generous structures on a small tower and further along the edge (Bh) to the belay.
L7 Demanding edge with slightly slippery rock - 1Bh, 1Nh. Some would like more bolts here. Still very nice climbing! Then just continue to the belay.
L8 With L8 & 9 you avoid the red tower. Downclimb to the left and cross on a cracked slab. Descend one step to the left, do not follow the fixed rope on the right, but along the diagnonally ascending crack up to the belay.
L9 Straight up on flakes to the ridge (Bh) and just continue along the ridge. Either climb everything on the edge (Bh) or at the end follow the crack system to the right of it. Belay on a small pedestal. There is a variant that crosses from the belay to the left and leads back over beautiful cracks to the ridge (probably more difficult).
L10 Great exposed traverse on grippy rock (Bh) to the left. Then straight up via crack. Possibly Cam 0.3-0.4 helpful in the crack.
L11 Everything along the grippy ridge between numerous spikes. Watch out for rope drag. Can also be bypassed on the left or right, for example to overtake other rope teams. Belay on ridge spikes.
L12 A bit confusing. Continue right on the ridge, first on friction, then a bolt on the tower. From here walking terrain. Tower can also be easily bypassed on the right. Belay on spikes.
L13 walking area over ridge, at the end to the right on the belay on a small platform.
L14 athletic moves off the belay, cam 0.5-.75 useful. Then generously up on flakes to the belay in a small niche.
L15 Simple terrain, bolt on round edge and further up to belay in notch.
L16 Steep wall that looks hard. However, it turns out to be extremely grippy and fantastic, 1Bh, 1Nh. Belay right at the end of the steep passage. Can be skipped with 50m rope.
L17 Beautiful final pitch on rough, grippy flakes that lead to the sharp needle, the summit. The view opens wonderfully here!
Approach from Furka Pass 1.5h
Climbing time 4-6h
Descent to start 1.5h
Descent Furka Pass 1h
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : x / XXXXX new material, can usually be supplemented well
Exposure : east, south
Material : 50m single rope, 5 quickdraws, including extendable, 2-3 cams (0.3-1), alpine boots or climbing finches (recommended)
Book Gross Furkahorn Southeast Ridge
Would you like to climb the Gross Furkahorn over its southeast ridge or undertake another mountain tour? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day