Foto Speedy Füllemann
Cheselenflue | Dr Blau Chäfer ****
6SL | 150m | 6a + (5c obl)
W. Britschgi 1996
The route name, the blue beetle, sounds lovely and could be associated with a plaisir or even children's route. On the one hand dr Blau Chäfer actually has a plaisir character. The climbing is, as is typical for the cross-layered limestone in the Melchtal, very generous with often positive holds. Accordingly, the Blau Chäfer in particular tests rather your ability to stick good holds in steeper terrain and less how precisely you can move in technically delicate terrain. This suits, for example, those people who have less experience in technically delicate outdoor climbing and who are used to gyms. For those, the Blau Chäfer, for example accompanied by an experienced climber or mountain guide, offers an extremely attractive route to gain experience in outdoor multipitch climbing, comparable for instance to the very generous routes at the Mittagflue above Guttannen.
The rock in the Blau Chäfer is consistently good and the less solid sections are already well cleaned due to the numerous ascents. Climbing requires some power and the grades go up to 6a+, but the mandatory difficulties are no more than 5c. Whether you have to take a rest in the individual pitches or not, it is a great pleasure to climb the impressively steep Blau Chäfer - especially knowing that such steep routes can hardly be found in those grades.
In particular, the protection in the Blau Chäfer deserves the rating Plaisir, that is, the bolts are very tight. In order that you really can't miss the route - or maybe even for artistic reasons? - the bolts were also coloured in blue.
However, the Blau Chäfer also has a different face. Due to the steepness, the tour features an exposure that is hardly seen in plaisir routes. The exposure is abundant when climbing, on the hanging belay and especially when abseiling. The first abseiling pitch is really impressive and does not forgive any mistakes. This marks the tour with an exclusive character. For the joy of the ones and the terror of the others. Taken together dr Blau Chäfer is a really worthwhile route with an exciting mixture of plaisir and wild exposure.
Approach the Blau Chäfer
The approximate path is shown on the map. You are a little faster if you go up the direct path at 1390m about 10 meters after the second hairpin turn. This branch is difficult to spot from the hiking trail, but is easy to walk.
Topo dr Blau Chäfer
L1 5c The route starts along the inclined ramp. At the beginning some demanding moves, but overall the structures are generous from the very beginning a offers great climbing. The popularity of the route can be seen on the rock, since some holds are polished, but the climbing is enjoyable nevertheless.
L2 6a+ Continue along the ramp. At the end the route shows its character for the first time, it gets really steep and exposed. Impressive hanging belay with a lot of air underneath.
L3 6a+ steep, athletic, great. The depth sucks, gravity pulls. Probably the most impressive, but also the most exhausting pitch.
L4 6a+ chimney-like overhang, then easier. Comfortable belay.
L5 6a+ Face climbing on great structures. The hanging belay is again exposed and gives an idea of what the abseiling will look like...
L6 6a Finally some technically delicate moves where you have to spread out precisely.