Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Salbit Westridge
mighty, wild, bold
In our opinion, the Salbit Westridge is one of the best classic climbing routes in the alpine region, if not worldwide. A more than a thousand meters of climbing and 36 pitches long, spicy alpine trip over six towers that rise from a sea of granite. Grippy rock, consistently good, mostly the best rock quality, bold lines along cracks, flakes, edges and chimneys make climbing on the Salbit a special experience. Even the slabby parts offer generous, sometimes bizarre structures.
The Salbitschijen west ridge is long. It requires very safe and efficient climbing in grades 5 and 6, especially in classic terrain with cracks and chimneys. In addition, some sections up to grade 6b must be climbed. This can be mastered A0, but those who are not above these difficulties will have a hard time on the Salbitschijen Westgrat.
Fortunately, the tour has remained alpine. It has exposed passages and requires safe handling of mobile belay devices, efficient rope handling and advanced route finding skills. Even for the local mountain guides, the Salbit Westgrat is one of the most demanding, but also the most rewarding tours in the Uri Alps. In short: a demanding and absolute highlight for every experienced alpinist who enjoys classic climbing tours, alone or accompanied by a mountain guide.
NZZ article on Salbitschijen, including Salbit Südgrat
SRF contribution to the new Salbit Bridge
Karte Salbitschijen | Rot eingezeichnet: ungefährer Zustieg zum Biwak und Abstieg vom Gipfel. Der Zustieg zur Salbithütte und zum Einstieg verläuft über den eingezeichneten Wanderweg.
Approach - Salbit Westridge
If you want to extend a very long day, you can basically climb the Salbit Westgrat in one day, from valley to valley. The vast majority, and this is recommended hikes up to the Salbit hut or biwak on the eve, enjoys the evening atmosphere in the mountains, admires the granite giant and gets ready for a big day, either with anticipation, with their "Sh ... in the pants ”or with a mysterious mixture of these two, which can sometimes make these activities especially attractive.
The ascent to the Salbit bivouac leads from the Voralp curve via Voralp and Spicherribiechelen in less than 2.5 hours to the bivouac. In the Chelen you will find pathless terrain, partially reinforced with steel cables. This approach is exposed and one is partially defenseless from everything that comes from above. Often there is snow until early summer, which may require the use of an ice axe and even crampons, but at least good footwear is essential. You don't want to drag this heavy material over the 6 granite towers of the Salbitschijen west ridge. The bivouac is equipped with 10 beds including blankets and simple cooking equipment (gas cooker, pans, etc.). Half-empty gas cartridges are often found on site. If you want to be sure, bring your own. Water, on the other hand, is scarce here and you can usually only find it in early summer in the immediate vicinity of the bivouac.
However, it is recommended to take the approach via the Salbit hut. The path leads along a safe hiking trail and takes about one and a half hours from the Göschenertal to the hut and another hour over the new Salbit bridge to the start of the Salbit West Ridge. The hut keeper Richi and his team not only provide excellent food, but also inspire the Salbit hut with their friendly and cordial nature. In addition, the descent from the Salbit leads directly past the hut, which is why you can deposit any equipment you don't need here.