Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing on the Teufelstalwand
minimal effort, maximum yield
The Teufelstalwand immediately catches the eye of a climber when he is in the Schöllenen Gorge between Andermatt and Göschenen. The gorge, the “Inner Tüfelstal”, has dug itself into the compact granite up to three hundred meters deep and lines up a mighty, vertical wall on its south side. The rock in the Teufelstalswand is among the best that the Uri granite has to offer and it can even compete with that on the Furka or Salbit. Compact, rough and generously structured granite. In particular, you will also find fantastic crack lines, “splitters”, which are rarely found in our region. Another hallmark of the Teufelstalwand is its very easy accessibility by car or even public transport as well as the short ascent and descent. In particular, however, the tours here are really first class and so the Teufelstalwand has quickly become one of the most attractive and popular areas for multi-pitch climbing in Central Switzerland.
By the way: Freeriding in Andermatt is known to many. However, only a few people are aware that in good conditions even the narrow Teufelsschlucht can be "ridden" with skis. A very special adventure.
Teufelstalwand | Routes & Topos
With the car or public transport to Nätschen above Andermatt. Parking spaces can be found on the Oberalp Passstrasse in front of the junction towards Nätschen / Gütsch. From here, following the hiking path shown, you can reach the abseiling point in 20-30 minutes. From there you can rappel 3 times into the gorge. In principle, you could also park on Nätschen-Gütsch-Strasse before the curve at Point 2019m. For this you need a permit - it will be checked! - and in particular, the approach is only slightly shorter.
The descent leads in 45 minutes over beautiful, inviting balconies, does not pose any difficulties and is easy to manage with light shoes. Numerous Cairns and fixed ropes point the way (see rough sketch on the map). At about 2030m, a trail branches off to the right. This traverses the slope and leads back to the road, but it is easier to stay on the first path and climb all the way up the hill.
Teufelstalwand emergency exit
There is basically an emergency exit from the gorge. However, this is poorly set up and therefore only recommended in an emergency. Starting from the Tour Pissoir du Diable, follow the fixed ropes on the right, cross the stream, follow another fixed rope and climb up the level via rough, steep terrain. Bushfight guaranteed!