Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Gletschhorn | South Ridge *****
10 SL | 380m | 4b (4a obl)
Kuntze, Lochmatter 1907, refurbished Arnold 94
Climbing in the basin of Tiefengletscher is not for free. If you want to climb the Gletschhorn south ridge, a tour on the very rewarding Dammazwilingen or the Gletschhorn Sporn, you have to take a 2.5h long but scenic approach. Once this is done, you will be rewarded several times: with the alpine setting on the one hand, the proud Galenstock and the unfortunately dwindling but still impressive glacier to the side. And on the other hand with a granite of the highest quality. The coarse-grained, rough granite from Uri on the Gletschhorn Südgrat is just fantastic. Classic ridge climbing on grippy cracks, flakes and slabs. The ridge is ideal for climbing with heavy shoes. In addition, the Gletschhorn Südgrat is well equipped with new material for a classic ridge. Slings and cams are also easy to use. The line mostly and obviously follows the ridge. Only the branch in the sixth length could be missed. After 10 pitches, a wonderful view of the Dammakette, the Salbitschijen and other Urner peaks opens up from the summit. The descent then requires further concentration over the alpine gravel and block terrain before you can tackle the descent into the valley, certainly with a satisfied mind.
In short: a wonderful, classic ridge climb that is not without reason counted among the highlights of the Uri Alps by the local mountain guides.
Approach Gletschhorn Southridge
By Postbus to the Hotel Tiefenbach or by car to the Tätsch (7.- fee). Then follow the hiking trail towards Albert-Heim-Hütte. In early summer with good snow conditions, the approach over the glacier is usually preferable, alternatively along the trail and cairns that lead north from point 2765, see map. The last 150 meters in altitude lead first over rocky slabs and gullies with easy scrambling sections and over a steep piece of firn, which depending on the conditions requires the use of crampons.
Descent Gletschhorn Südgrat
Rappel or downclimb 20m from the summit. Then you head for the mighty pile of boulders in the fallline, which forms a flat platform. Descend to the left of this over gravelly terrain, partially marked in blue to the abseiling points, via which you can get back to the snow field in 3x20m. Within good firn conditions go orographically to the right under the spur, otherwise descend the path known from the ascent over the rock slabs.
Topo Gletschhorn Südgrat
L1 The starting point is obvious (E 676551 N 163433). The first pitch already reveals the character of the whole route: great climbing, obvious lines almost always along the ridge, bomb-proof, large-grip granite. Belay stations on solid, mostly steel rings.
L2 Like the first length, always on the ridge.
L3 A little more demanding than the previous two pitches on shallow cracks, but no less beautiful.
L4 The most difficult length of the route asks for crack climbing technique. If you manage to get your feet stuck in the crack, the pitch is almost in your pocket. All others might leave some strength and nerves behind or pull on one of the 5 bolts. Very nice length, about 4b.
L5 ridge climbing and then easy scrambling. Belay to the right on a grassy belt.
L6 From the belay, climb a few meters onto the platform, then cross a few meters to the left and climb up the slab on the right, a difficult-to-spot bolt shows the way. The official route does not follow the dihedral in which one is drawn spontaneously. However, the latter is only slightly more difficult.
L7 Follow the dihedral, then straight up in steep and extremely grippy climbing. Bela on bolts with a chain.
L8 slab climbing, then follow along the flat ridge. Many bolts. A short downclimbing section leads to the bleay.
L9 The pitch starts easily and then leads in great and exposed climbing over the fantastic ridge. WOW!
L10 Technically demanding section around the corner, well secured with a bolt. Then just along the ridge.
Beauty : ***** / *****
Protection : x / XXXXX new material, can usually be supplemented well
Exposure : south
Material : 50m rope, 5 quickdraws, 2-3 cams (0.5-2 and larger can be used), slings
Times Gletschhorn South Ridge
Approach: 2.5h from Tätsch, 1.5h from Albert-Heim-Hütte
Climbing time: 3-4 hours
Descent until the end of rappelling: 1h
Descent, end of rappelling to Tätsch: 1.5-2h
Book Gletschhorn Southridge
Would you like to climb the Gletschhorn over its south ridge or undertake another mountain tour? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 490.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 1 | Book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day