MYBERGTOUR'S FINEST
Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Alpentraum *****
10 SL | 300m | 7a (6c obl)
R. Würsch, Ch. Linder 2011
Alpentraum is definitely one of the best routes in the Teufelstal. It follows the central, most compact part of the wall and offers stunning climbing. Imposing lines along cracks and flakes with flawless rock quality - a highlight! The first ascenders have remained true to themselves, the protection is very good all the way up. Whether one should bolt a perfect crack or not can and is debated. As a matter of fact Alpentraum has become a popular and often climbed classic with a combination of excellent climbing, very good protection and mild grading.
Approach Alpentraum
At the end of the abseils into the Teufelstal you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a ledge (short fixed rope) and traverse it to the left. A second short fixed rope is reached. At the end you will find the start. Descent and emergency exit see here .
Topo Alpentraum
L1 6a warm-up pitch, but technically still demanding.
L2 6c Great crack, excellent and varied climbing. In pitch 2 everyone gets warm or already pumped.
L3 6c Great hand crack, great climbing.
L4 6b What a line. Great crack with a wide range of holds and footholds. Stunning!
L5 6a Nice pitch up to the tower and along the wall to the belay.
L6 7a Persistent but never really difficult along the shallow dihedral. Again beautiful pitch.
L7 6c+ Technically in the beginning, powerful at the end with underclings and slopy edge.
L8 5c Pretty
L9 6c Again very pumpy with a traverse, a mantle and a crack dihedral. Awesome climbing.
L10 5a Nice final pitch, the pot-level exit area is even more beautiful. You almost feel like in a botanical garden.
Beauty : ***** / *****
Protection : xxxxx / XXXXX, Plaisir +
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 12 quickdraws, no cams
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Keywords: climbing, multi-pitch, Teufelswand, Teufelstalwand, Alpentraum, Topo, mountain guide