Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | The Devils last Dance ****
8SL | 230m | 6c+ (6b+ obl)
Andreas Stadler 2017
The Devils Last Dance, the latest route on the Teufelstalwand, shares the first pitch with Pissoir du Diable and then branches off to the right. The second and third pitch offer a mixture of very good wall and crack climbing. Then the route wows every crack climber. Once again, the Teufelstalwand proves its class here. The final pitch again offers very nice wall climbing.
The Devils Last Dance has to be secured in most pitches by mobile devices, which is easily possible. If the rock does not offer structures for mobile safety gear, there are bolts at very fair spacings. It remains to be seen whether the devil's dance really is over with this route.
Approach The Devils last dance
Rappel into the Teufelstal and walk up 100m on the right side of the brook, cross it and climb up along fixed ropes (the second ropes that you can see as you walk up) to the start which is shared with Pissoir du Diable (marked in red). See descent & emergency exit here.
L1 6a This pitch is shared with Pissoir du diable.
L2 6b Go right onto a first and second small ledge (2 bolts) and follow the crack system. Traverse to the right crack system (2 bolts) and follow this one up to the belay.
L3 6c+ Easy climbing leads to a first crux on small crimps. Then delicate moves along the shallow crack. If this fades out crux move to the left to a good hold. Keep right, good placement at the end (0.5) and up.
L4 6c Great pitch. First a fine, fingery section, followed by a stunning traverse to the right, then a beautiful finger crack that widens into a hand crack.
L5 6a Short, very nice crack pitch. Can also be connected to L4. After about 5 meters leave the hand crack and traverse right over the grippy wall and follow the right crack. 2x Cam #3 are pleasant, but also possible with only one.
L6 6b Probably the best pitch of the route. Steep hand to thin hand crack with some good footholds. Stunning! Great final moves over a small, grippy roof.
L7 6b+ Grippy wall climbing followed by the crux over the roof (long reach move to good holds). The belay is at the top left end of the jardin and could easily be overlooked.
L8 4 Simple traverse to the left in grade 4. Two bolts, Cam 0.4 useful for climber who follows. Feasible with approach shoes. However, using the rope is still highly recommended.
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : xxx / XXXXX (where bolted), can be easily secured in clean passages
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, Camalots 2x C4 #0.3-3, optional #2-3 only single, 6 quickdraws
Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand
Would you like to go climbing in the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
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Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | Book privately
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Costs from CHF 650.- per day