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Foto Speedy Füllemann

Climbing | Teufelstalwand | The Devils last Dance ****

8SL | 230m | 6c+ (6b+ obl)

Andreas Stadler 2017

 

The Devils Last Dance, the latest route on the Teufelstalwand, shares the first pitch with Pissoir du Diable and then branches off to the right. The second and third pitch offer a mixture of very good wall and crack climbing. Then the route wows every crack climber. Once again, the Teufelstalwand proves its class here. The final pitch again offers very nice wall climbing.

The Devils Last Dance has to be secured in most pitches by mobile devices, which is easily possible. If the rock does not offer structures for mobile safety gear, there are bolts at very fair spacings. It remains to be seen whether the devil's dance really is over with this route.

Approach The Devils last dance

 

Rappel into the Teufelstal and walk up 100m on the right side of the brook, cross it and climb up along fixed ropes (the second ropes that you can see as you walk up) to the start which is shared with Pissoir du Diable (marked in red). See descent & emergency exit here.

 

Topo The Devils last dance

 

L1 6a This pitch is shared with Pissoir du diable.

 

L2 6b Go right onto a first and second small ledge (2 bolts) and follow the crack system. Traverse to the right crack system (2 bolts) and follow this one up to the belay.

 

L3 6c+ Easy climbing leads to a first crux on small crimps. Then delicate moves along the shallow crack. If this fades out crux move to the left to a good hold. Keep right, good placement at the end (0.5) and up.

 

L4 6c Great pitch. First a fine, fingery section, followed by a stunning traverse to the right, then a beautiful finger crack that widens into a hand crack.

 

L5 6a Short, very nice crack pitch. Can also be connected to L4. After about 5 meters leave the hand crack and traverse right over the grippy wall and follow the right crack. 2x Cam #3 are pleasant, but also possible with only one.

 

L6 6b Probably the best pitch of the route. Steep hand to thin hand crack with some good footholds. Stunning! Great final moves over a small, grippy roof.

 

L7 6b+ Grippy wall climbing followed by the crux over the roof (long reach move to good holds). The belay is at the top left end of the jardin and could easily be overlooked.

 

L8 4 Simple traverse to the left in grade 4. Two bolts, Cam 0.4 useful for climber who follows. Feasible with approach shoes. However, using the rope is still highly recommended.

 

 

Beauty : **** / *****

Protection : xxx / XXXXX (where bolted), can be easily secured in clean passages

Exposure : south

Material : 50m double rope, Camalots 2x C4 #0.3-3, optional #2-3 only single, 6 quickdraws

 

 

 

 

Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand

 

Would you like to go climbing in the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.

 

 

Option 1 | book mybergtour group

Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.

 

Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.

 

Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day

Max. 2 persons

 

 

Option 2 | Book privately

Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.

 

Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.

 

Costs from CHF 650.- per day

 

 

 

 

You might also be interested in:

Etat de Choc | Climbing on Eiger | Freeride Engelberg

 

Keywords: crack climbing, clean climbing, Teufelstal, Teufelstalwand, The Devils last Dance, Topo, mountain guide

 

  

  

mybergtour  |  Jacob Burckhardt Str. 20 | Basel | Schweiz

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