Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Pissoir du Diable ***
8SL | 250m | 6b+ (6a obl)
R. Dolf, S. Bühlemann 2011
Pissoir du Diable is located in the far right part of the Teufelstalwand. Although the route has such big names as Laura, Alpentraum or Im Zeichen der Freundschaft as neighbours, it regularly sees visitors. And rightly so. Contrary to what the name implies, Pissoir du Diable offers pleasant, grippy climbing. The protection is very good, in some places you have to add cams. Compared to other routes on the Teufelstalwand, a couple of exciting moves can be climbed between the bolts here, which gives Pissoir du Diable more character. Overall, a very worthwhile climb, even if it is a little surpassed in terms of class by its neighbors.
Approach Pissoir du Diable
Rappel into the Teufelstal and walk up 100m on the right side of the brook (faint trail), cross the brook and along fixed ropes (the second ones that you see while walking up) to the belay at the start of Pissoir du Diable (marked in red). Descent and emergency exit see here .
L1 6a beautiful wall climbing and an exciting crack passage. 50m long pitch. The Devils last Dance branches off to the right.
L2 5c up A little dirty. Short layback climbing and just keep going.
L3 6b+ Crux right after the belay with fingery moves. In the end again technically demanding on a shallow crack. Unusually hard grades for the Teufelstalwand.
L4 5c Go left to exciting spreading moves.
L5 6a First straight up in the wide channel, the urinal, then left out onto the surprisingly grippy wall. Nice pitch.
L6 5c+ Nice climbing on grippy structures.
L7 6a+ Great pitch on crimps, flakes and cracks. Exciting, mandatory crux.
L8 6a Short section up the tower. Bolted tightly.
Beauty : *** / *****
Protection : xxxx / XXXXX very well protected, can be supplemented very well
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 12 quickdraws, Camalots C4 0.4-2
Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand
Would you like to climb the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | Book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day