Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Pissoir du Diable ***

8SL | 250m | 6b+ (6a obl)

R. Dolf, S. Bühlemann 2011

Pissoir du Diable is located in the far right part of the Teufelstalwand. Although the route has such big names as Laura, Alpentraum or Im Zeichen der Freundschaft as neighbours, it regularly sees visitors. And rightly so. Contrary to what the name implies, Pissoir du Diable offers pleasant, grippy climbing. The protection is very good, in some places you have to add cams. Compared to other routes on the Teufelstalwand, a couple of exciting moves can be climbed between the bolts here, which gives Pissoir du Diable more character. Overall, a very worthwhile climb, even if it is a little surpassed in terms of class by its neighbors.

Der zentrale Teil der Teufelstalwand

Approach Pissoir du Diable

Rappel into the Teufelstal and walk up 100m on the right side of the brook (faint trail), cross the brook and along fixed ropes (the second ones that you see while walking up) to the belay at the start of Pissoir du Diable (marked in red). Descent and emergency exit see here .

Topo Pissoir du Diable

L1 6a beautiful wall climbing and an exciting crack passage. 50m long pitch. The Devils last Dance branches off to the right.

L2 5c up A little dirty. Short layback climbing and just keep going.

L3 6b+ Crux right after the belay with fingery moves. In the end again technically demanding on a shallow crack. Unusually hard grades for the Teufelstalwand.

L4 5c Go left to exciting spreading moves.

L5 6a First straight up in the wide channel, the urinal, then left out onto the surprisingly grippy wall. Nice pitch.

L6 5c+ Nice climbing on grippy structures.

L7 6a+ Great pitch on crimps, flakes and cracks. Exciting, mandatory crux.

L8 6a Short section up the tower. Bolted tightly.

Beauty : *** / *****

Protection : xxxx / XXXXX very well protected, can be supplemented very well

Exposure : south

Material : 50m double rope, 12 quickdraws, Camalots C4 0.4-2

Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand

Would you like to climb the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.

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Max. 2 persons

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