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Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Eternal Crack ****
10SL | 300m | 7a (6b obl)
Fratagnoli, Petazzi, Depaulis 2016
Eternal Crack was the first route on the Teufelstalwand, where the abundant natural structures were consistently used for securing and bolts were only placed where no mobile devices could be used. This not only fired the overdue starting signal to open up clean routes on the Teufelstalwand. With Eternal Crack the first ascentionists also created a great route with an impressive character. Today you can already find a handful of first-class crack climbs with a predominantly clean character on the Teufelstalwand: Florina, Maira, Laura, The Devils last Dance.
Approach Eternal Crack
At the end of the abseils into the Teufelstal you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a ledge (short fixed rope) and traverse on it to the left. You reach a second short fixed rope, climb a step down and reach the first belay of Eternal Crack. From here, Laura , Florina & Maira start on the left. Descent and emergency exit see here .
Topo Eternal Crack
L1 6a Start pitch with 2 bolts.
L2 6b + Great crack dihedral. Can stay wet after rain. Even not entirely for free in dry conditions. You easily get drawn into the left crack which is a dead end.
L3 6b + Super crack pitch, hand to thin hand.
L4 7a Unfortunately, the crack system is not continuous here and a very technical slab has to be climbed. As a single move for sure the crux of the route. One might be tempted to pull the draws. Afterwards easier terrain to the belay.
L5 7a Increasingly wide crack. It can be played with fist and even wider crack techniques. Cool! 2x C4 number 4 are necessary. Some may even feel more comfortable with a cam number 5, but this is by no means mandatory.
L6 6b+ Short pitch, route finding not trivial. Obvious crack in the slab from L7 further to the right serves as a guide.
L7 6c Nice finger crack in a slab. Beautiful, technically demanding climbing.
L8 6a Beautiful, steep climbing on big structures.
L9 4 One traverses the ledge to the right, climbs a short, simple upswing (4m) and thus arrives directly at the start of L10 from Eternal Crack, which is marked with two bolts. Nevertheless, you can easily miss L10 ... and end up in the last pitch of Alpentraum.
L10 6b + If you follow the simplest, logical terrain, you will automatically reach the last pitch of Alpentraum and bypass Eternal Crack L10. The latter climbs a shallow, technical crack. You feel more like in a climbing garden than in a multi-pitch route. The line and the climbing are still great.
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : - / XXXXX, belays bolted, can be secured very easily anywhere
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 3-5 quickdraws, Camalots 2x C4 0.3-4, optional C4 0.2 and small to medium nuts
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Keywords: crack climbing, clean climbing, Teufelstalwand, Eternal Crack, Topo, mountain guide