Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Laura *****
10 SL | 250m | 7a (6c obl)
Andreas Stadler 2016
The routes in the left part of the Teufelstalwand have been left largely clean and therefore have a completely different character than the well secured routes in the right part of the wall. The result is clean crack climbs like Laura, Florina or Eternal Crack with an interesting, distinctive character.
Laura has quickly become one of the most popular crack routes in Central Switzerland. It offers great, steep crack climbing and follows a coherent crack system along its entire course. The belays are bolted and set up for abseiling, but there is not a single bolt in between. Completely clean lines are an absolute rarity. Who would have thought that something like this can be found in the Teufelstalwand. The clean character of Laura is by no means forced. It can be easily and obviously secured with cams everywhere.
Although the difficulties on the topo are moderate, Laura should not be underestimated. On the one hand, the claim is raised by the clean character, on the other hand, the rating is based on the American crack rating and feels rather hard for some repeaters with wall climbing background. Laura at the Teufelstalwand convinces with perfect, athletic cracks and is an absolute highlight and Must Do for lovers of clean crack routes with finger, hand and foot jams. See also here an entry on gipfelbuch.ch.
At the end of the abseils you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a grassy ledge (short fixed rope) and traverses it to the left. You reach a second short fixed rope, climb a step down and traverse further to the belay of Eternal Crack. Use the same belay to start Laura & Florina. They both follow the simple ramp on the left and aim for the striking chimney dihedral. Descent and emergency exit see here .
L1 5a Extended approach pitch. At the beginning 0.5-0.75, at the end 0.4. No gear in between, but climbing is easy. Anyone who is already sweating here will have a hard day.
L2 5c Looks grassy, but turns out to be a great pitch. Can be climbed as a chimney, but more rewarding along the stunning hand crack in the left wall.
L3 7a Perfect crack dihedral. Fingers for some, tips for others. For the former rather 6c+, for the latter rather 7a+. In the end difficult right-wards traverse to the belay. Nuts can also be used in pitch 3.
L4 6b+ Athletic finger to hand crack, in the end even climbable as a squeeze chimney. Great! Be careful not to put cams behind the jammed block. Slightly uncomfortable hanging belay.
L5 6c Probably the best pitch of the climb. What a line! Perfect crack dihedral with finger locks and small footholds. Stunning! After the roof, climb straight up along the dihedral or cross right and climb the very grippy flake. Comfortable belay.
L6 6b Beautiful laybacking and exciting at the end with a delicate stand-up. Comfortable belay.
L7 6c+ Easy start, then follow the right, widening crack and leave it to the right into a niche. Demanding crux out of steep crack dihedral. Some might find it hard for the grade, but with the proper beta 6c+ is adequate. Tip: sit on the edge!
L8 6b Belay with 1 bolt, supplement with C4 1-2. Perfect thin hand spitter. What a line. Great. Should be twice as long.
L9 6c Great finger crack with an exciting stand-up in the middle. Great!
L10 6a Dihedral then cross left, the only meters of the route without a crack! Gear not obvious here (C4 2 in traverse). Then beautiful, steep hand crack, balcony and a chimney that can challenge you again on the last move to the belay.
Descent : follow the trail and the simplest terrain. This leads to the last, simple pitch of Alpentraum. Depending on your taste, you can belay again.
Beauty : ***** / *****
Protection : - / XXXXX belays bolted, no intermediate bolts, can be easily protected anywhere with mobile devices
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 3-5 quickdraws, Camalots 2x C4 0.2-2, 1x C4 4, optional 3x C4 0.2, 0.3, 0.75 and a few small to medium nuts
Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand
Would you like to go on a climbing tour on the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | Book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day