Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Florina *****
10 SL | 250m | 7c (7a+ obl)
Andreas Stadler 2016
Florina is currently the most difficult route on the Teufelstalwand. The crux pitch, rated 7c, includes a technically demanding, clean finger crack in the first and physically exhausting wall climbing on bolts in the second part. But if you want to reach the crux, you must first climb the second pitch, which is unique in its style. The sight of the imposing squeeze chimney inspires respect, perhaps even fear. However, the climbing is not hard and with the appropriate technique fun to climb. It remains exciting, however, because it is expo and the protection scarce. Anyone who likes this type of climbing will be amazed. After the chimney, you are compensated not only with a comfortable belay on the pot-level tower, but also with the perfect splitter in L3. To date, Florina has only received two free ascents, by Andreas Stadler and Spiri (5/19). If you want to add even more spice, start with Laura and add the 7c pitch from Florina. A demanding, very rewarding combination.
At the end of the abseils you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a grassy ledge (short fixed rope) and traverses it to the left. You reach a second short fixed rope, climb a step down and traverse further to the belay of Eternal Crack. Use the same belay to start Laura & Florina. They both follow the simple ramp on the left and aim for the striking chimney dihedral. Descent and emergency exit see here .
L1 5a Extended approach pitch, shared with Laura. At the beginning Cam 0.5-0.75, at the end 0.4. No gear in between, but easy climbing. Anyone who is already sweating here will have a hard day.
L2 6a First a few meters along the chimney-like dihedral, then up the great, steep hand crack in the left wall - the left one of the two cracks is more rewarding. Into the chimney and squeeze it up 30m. The chimney is expo and the protection is sparse. It has 2 jammed blocks that you can tie off or put a Cam 0.75-1 on the second one. On the far left you get a bad wedge. However, you sit very stably and can hardly fall out, provided you do not pass out from sheer exertion... 50m to the level of the pot on the tower. Knee pads make climbing much more comfortable. Some will love it, some will hate it. The pitch will definitely be remembered by both!
L3 6b+ What a perfect splinter - WOW! First over the loose flakes. These are more stable than they appear, but still be careful and do not put any cams behind! Then perfect hand crack. Number 4 cam necessary, you can also get two in or slide the first.
L4 6a Two meters to the left and then straight up. Mantle onto a niche and then follow the generous main crack system which is widening again in the third part, save cam 3 and possibly 4 for the end. Somewhat confusing, often dirty section towards the belay ledge. In case you want to exit via Laura traverse to the right to the belay.
L5 7c Great pitch. A bit tedious from the belay, then simple and generous up to the finger crack that runs up the wall. From here technically demanding, clean finger crack climbing to a no-hand rest, approx. 7b. Then steep, technically and physically demanding wall climbing on bolts. At the third bolt left to the edge and up to the belay approx. 7c. Directly via the 4th Bolt project, approx. 8a.
L6 6a You belay from the bolts on the jardin. From here Florina joins Laura again. Dihedral then cross left, the only meters of the route without a crack! Gear not obvious here (C4 #2 in traverse). Then beautiful, steep hand crack, balcony and a chimney that can challenge you again on the last move to the belay.
Descent: follow the trail and the simplest terrain. This leads to the last, simple pitch of Alpentraum. Depending on your taste, you can belay again.
Beauty: ***** / *****
Security: - / XXXXX, belays bolted, no intermediate bolts except on pitch 5, can be easily protected anywhere except in the chimney.
Material: 50m double rope, 5 quickdraws, Camalots 1x C4 #4, 2x C4 #0.2-3, 3x C4 #2, optional triple C4 #0.2, 0.3 and small to medium nuts.
Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand
Would you like to go on a climbing tour on the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | Book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day