Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Florina *****

Approach Laura

 

At the end of the abseils you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a grassy ledge (short fixed rope) and traverses it to the left. You reach a second short fixed rope, climb a step down and traverse further to the belay of Eternal Crack. Use the same belay to start Laura & Florina. They both follow the simple ramp on the left and aim for the striking chimney dihedral. Descent and emergency exit see here .

 

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Topo Florina

 

L1 5a Extended approach pitch, shared with Laura. At the beginning Cam 0.5-0.75, at the end 0.4. No gear in between, but easy climbing. Anyone who is already sweating here will have a hard day.

 

L2 6a First a few meters along the chimney-like dihedral, then up the great, steep hand crack in the left wall - the left one of the two cracks is more rewarding. Into the chimney and squeeze it up 30m. The chimney is expo and the protection is sparse. It has 2 jammed blocks that you can tie off or put a Cam 0.75-1 on the second one. On the far left you get a bad wedge. However, you sit very stably and can hardly fall out, provided you do not pass out from sheer exertion... 50m to the level of the pot on the tower. Knee pads make climbing much more comfortable. Some will love it, some will hate it. The pitch will definitely be remembered by both!

 

L3 6b+ What a perfect splinter - WOW! First over the loose flakes. These are more stable than they appear, but still be careful and do not put any cams behind! Then perfect hand crack. Number 4 cam necessary, you can also get two in or slide the first.

 

L4 6a Two meters to the left and then straight up. Mantle onto a niche and then follow the generous main crack system which is widening again in the third part, save cam 3 and possibly 4 for the end. Somewhat confusing, often dirty section towards the belay ledge. In case you want to exit via Laura traverse to the right to the belay.

 

L5 7c Great pitch. A bit tedious from the belay, then simple and generous up to the finger crack that runs up the wall. From here technically demanding, clean finger crack climbing to a no-hand rest, approx. 7b. Then steep, technically and physically demanding wall climbing on bolts. At the third bolt left to the edge and up to the belay approx. 7c. Directly via the 4th Bolt project, approx. 8a.

 

L6 6a You belay from the bolts on the jardin. From here Florina joins Laura again. Dihedral then cross left, the only meters of the route without a crack! Gear not obvious here (C4 #2 in traverse). Then beautiful, steep hand crack, balcony and a chimney that can challenge you again on the last move to the belay.

 

Descent: follow the trail and the simplest terrain. This leads to the last, simple pitch of Alpentraum. Depending on your taste, you can belay again.

 

Beauty: ***** / *****

Security: - / XXXXX, belays bolted, no intermediate bolts except on pitch 5, can be easily protected anywhere except in the chimney.

Exposure: south

Material: 50m double rope, 5 quickdraws, Camalots 1x C4 #4, 2x C4 #0.2-3, 3x C4 #2, optional triple C4 #0.2, 0.3 and small to medium nuts.