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Foto Speedy Füllemann

Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Florina *****

10 SL | 250m | 7c (7a+ obl)

Andreas Stadler 2016


Florina is currently the most difficult route on the Teufelstalwand. The crux pitch, rated 7c, includes a technically demanding, clean finger crack in the first and physically exhausting wall climbing on bolts in the second part. But if you want to reach the crux, you must first climb the second pitch, which is unique in its style. The sight of the imposing squeeze chimney inspires respect, perhaps even fear. However, the climbing is not hard and with the appropriate technique fun to climb. It remains exciting, however, because it is expo and the protection scarce. Anyone who likes this type of climbing will be amazed. After the chimney, you are compensated not only with a comfortable belay on the pot-level tower, but also with the perfect splitter in L3. To date, Florina has only received two free ascents, by Andreas Stadler and Spiri (5/19). If you want to add even more spice, start with Laura and add the 7c pitch from Florina. A demanding, very rewarding combination.