Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Im Zeichen der Freundschaft ****
10SL | 270m | 6b+ (6a+ obl)
Leuzinger, Cadenazzi 1973
Würsch, Linder, Muhmentaler, Lévy 2010
Im Zeichen der Freundschaft - within the sign of friendship - is one of the most popular routes on the Teufelstalwand. It is an old techno route opened back in 1973, which was refurbished and set up for free climbing in 2010. The result is a beautiful, well-secured route in moderate difficulties. It is very popular and you often meet several rope teams here. When abseiling into the Teufelstal it is worth scouting for the first pitch. Many aspirant of “im Zeichen der Freundschaft” has already accidentally landed in “ Wilde 13 ” and found the grades to be very hard. The tour runs along flakes and cracks that could be perfectly secured by mobile devices. If you want, you can practice dealing with those devices here, but wedges and cams are really not necessary. Fortunately for some - regrettably for others. All in all a really worthwhile route, which shows that you can not only do great freeriding in Andermatt, but also climb on stunning rock.
Approach Im Zeichen der Freundschaft
At the end of the abseils into the Teufelstal you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a grassy ledge (short fixed rope). From here, right up on footprints over very exposed terrain. The first fixed ropes lead to Wilde 13, a second fixed rope leads to im Zeichen der Freundschaft. Alternatively, you can cross the stream higher (marked with a red dot). This variant is less exposed, but here the stream crossing is usually not dry. Descent and emergency exit see here .
L1 5c + Nice climbing with the crux in a short crack dihedral.
L2 6a As in L1, spreading is required here. At the end you climb the wall to the right of the dihedral on small holds.
L3 6a+ beautiful, powerful laybacking on good holds and friction. At the end a short chimney. Great!
L4 6b+ Crux right at the beginning. Then a beautiful, athletic crack in flawless golden granite. Many will probably layback, although it is much easier and nicer to jam hand and feet.
L5 6b Some laybacking, grippy flakes and cracks in still flawless rock.
L6 & 7 5c+ Looks terrifying, but with spreading technique it turns out to be a very nice pitch, although it can get narrow.
L8 6a Nice wall climbing sections on grippy structures and also on friction.
L9 6a+ Similar to L8, very convenient belay.
L10 6b + WOW. Stunning pitch along a perfect crack dihedral. Surprisingly grippy but still powerful at the end.
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : xxxxx / XXXXX very well protected if not overbolted
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 12 quickdraws, no cams
Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand
Would you like to climb the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.
Option 1 | book mybergtour group
Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.
Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.
Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day
Max. 2 persons
Option 2 | Book privately
Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.
Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.
Costs from CHF 650.- per day