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Foto Speedy Füllemann

Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Wilde 13 ****

9SL | 280m | 7b (6c obl)

Stefan Bühlmann 2011

 

The name, the rating and also the information on material and protection in the topo inspire respect for the route Wilde 13. However, the climb soon turns out to be rather gracious. The grading is mild and the demanding sections are all very well secured with bolts. In simple terrain, however, you can and must secure with mobile devices. However, the possibilities for this are numerous and obvious.

 

Wilde 13 indeed is a great route that offers stunning climbing on the once again convincing granite around Andermatt. A village especially famous for world-class freeriding in winter.

Approach Wilde 13

 

At the end of the abseils into the Teufeltal you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a ledge (short fixed rope), but do not traverse to the left but climb a few meters to the right and then left holding over exposed grassy terrain to another fixed ropes that lead to the start of Wilde 13. The striking crack dihedral in L2 serves as a guide. Descent and emergency exit see here .

 

Topo Wilde 13

 

L1 6b+ Strenuous start but beautiful layback climbing, then a bit grassy to the belay. Very well secured, no cams necessary.

 

L2 7a+ Great line. Demanding dihedral climbing. Rather fine footwork and trust in the feet are required than strong fingers. Those who succeed in the former will find it rather easy, those who try to compensate with the latter will experience it as more difficult. Very tightly bolted. Placing gear would be possible but not necessary and uncomfortable from the delicate positions.

 

L3 6b Very nice climbing and finally you can and must secure yourself, which is easily possible.

 

L4 6b+ Again very nice climbing, initially on a crack (Crux) and then over generously structured rock to the belay. Partially clean.

 

L5 6c Beautiful clean hand crack followed by some great, technical wall climbing. Very nice pitch!

 

L6 7b Nice climbing. More physical below, more technical at the top and in between some rests, this pitch turns out to be rather soft for the grade and tightly secured.

 

L7 6a short and pleasant

 

L8 6c The roof looks a bit grimly, but is great fun to climb thanks to an easy to jam crack. Then over simple, flat terrain to the belay.

 

L9 6a+ Final pitch could be upgraded by combining it with the last, very rewarding pitch of Im Zeichen der Freundschaft.

 

Beauty : **** / *****

Protection : xxxx / XXXXX, well protected, can be supplemented very well

Exposure : south

Material : 50m double rope, 10 quickdraws, Camalots 0.4-2

 

 

 

 

   

Book climbing tour on Teufelstalwand

 

Would you like to climb the Teufelstalwand? To book us, you have 2 Options.

 

 

Option 1 | book mybergtour group

Subscribe to our Tour Mail. Whenever ideal conditions come up, we post climbing tours on mybergtour.ch. You will be informed by email and can register online.

 

Your advantages: You will be offered exactly those tours that are in best conditions and you can decide at short notice.

 

Costs from CHF 390.- per person and day

Max. 2 persons

 

 

Option 2 | Book privately

Here you are the boss. You determine both the date and the tour. We are looking for a guide for you and soon you can start.

 

Your advantages: You can freely choose the tour and the date and go to the mountains with your friends.

 

Costs from CHF 650.- per day

 

 

 

 

You might also be interested in:
Overview Teufelstalwand | Gross Bielenhorn | Gross Furkahorn | Bergseeschijen

 

 

Keywords: climbing, multi-pitch, Teufelswand, Teufelstalwand, Wilde 13, Topo, mountain guide, 

 

 

mybergtour  |  Jacob Burckhardt Str. 20 | Basel | Schweiz

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