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Foto Speedy Füllemann
Climbing | Teufelstalwand | Wilde 13 ****
9SL | 280m | 7b (6c obl)
Stefan Bühlmann 2011
The name, the rating and also the information on material and protection in the topo inspire respect for the route Wilde 13. However, the climb soon turns out to be rather gracious. The grading is mild and the demanding sections are all very well secured with bolts. In simple terrain, however, you can and must secure with mobile devices. However, the possibilities for this are numerous and obvious.
Wilde 13 indeed is a great route that offers stunning climbing on the once again convincing granite around Andermatt. A village especially famous for world-class freeriding in winter.
Approach Wilde 13
At the end of the abseils into the Teufeltal you cross the stream. You climb a few meters up on a ledge (short fixed rope), but do not traverse to the left but climb a few meters to the right and then left holding over exposed grassy terrain to another fixed ropes that lead to the start of Wilde 13. The striking crack dihedral in L2 serves as a guide. Descent and emergency exit see here .
Topo Wilde 13
L1 6b+ Strenuous start but beautiful layback climbing, then a bit grassy to the belay. Very well secured, no cams necessary.
L2 7a+ Great line. Demanding dihedral climbing. Rather fine footwork and trust in the feet are required than strong fingers. Those who succeed in the former will find it rather easy, those who try to compensate with the latter will experience it as more difficult. Very tightly bolted. Placing gear would be possible but not necessary and uncomfortable from the delicate positions.
L3 6b Very nice climbing and finally you can and must secure yourself, which is easily possible.
L4 6b+ Again very nice climbing, initially on a crack (Crux) and then over generously structured rock to the belay. Partially clean.
L5 6c Beautiful clean hand crack followed by some great, technical wall climbing. Very nice pitch!
L6 7b Nice climbing. More physical below, more technical at the top and in between some rests, this pitch turns out to be rather soft for the grade and tightly secured.
L7 6a short and pleasant
L8 6c The roof looks a bit grimly, but is great fun to climb thanks to an easy to jam crack. Then over simple, flat terrain to the belay.
L9 6a+ Final pitch could be upgraded by combining it with the last, very rewarding pitch of Im Zeichen der Freundschaft.
Beauty : **** / *****
Protection : xxxx / XXXXX, well protected, can be supplemented very well
Exposure : south
Material : 50m double rope, 10 quickdraws, Camalots 0.4-2
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Keywords: climbing, multi-pitch, Teufelswand, Teufelstalwand, Wilde 13, Topo, mountain guide,